Susan Cianciolo, the New York-based artist -designer-conceptualist created 11 Run collections between 1995-2005 ceasing the line more or less exactly at the same time the fashion industry began to embrace her. The Run shows presented early versions of many of the fashion tropes that are still (or newly) considered subversive today: performance pieces, short films, non-model models, a focus on artistic collaboration. One of Cianciolo’s most memorable collections was not a show at all, but a film, depicting a group of women spinning around on a field arm in arm, and elsewhere, models hanging suspended on tightropes. The film itself isn’t explicitly political – created in the 90s, before the true rise of the id-pol era, gallerist Andrea Rosen recalled for Vogue: ‘No one was sitting around thinking, “Oh, we’re reactionary or against.”’ The film’s title, in fact (thought up by Cianciolo’s friend, Harmony Korine) is as provocative as it gets. But there’s a feeling of female community, without losing at the same time, the subjectivity of each model – gazing directly into the camera, suspended mid-air like real life Louise Bourgeois spiders.